Irene in Rome

Two nights in Montefalco:

Now that I have discovered red wine, Dennis and I spend a fair amount of time hanging out in wine shops, of which there are many here in Rome. After discovering Sagrantino in Todi, we realized that many of the wines we love come from Montefalco. And it dawned on us that rather than continuing to pay more money for these wines in Rome, we should just go to the town of Montefalco and hope to find some bargains.

So, just prior to our trip home for Christmas, we took a train to Montefalco. Weather-wise, it was not the best of weekends. We’re talking torrential rains. The bus from the train station let us off just outside the city walls, but the rain had let up, so on a dark Friday evening we passed through the city gates and climbed to the piazza at the top of the town. As usual, there are not many hotel choices right in the ancient city, but we found an empty one, with nice rooms, that included a little breakfast.

The town appeared nearly deserted when we arrived, whether due to the weather, the time of year, the economy, who knew? All the shopkeepers came alive as we passed by. Customers! But at that point, we were only in the market for dinner. After settling into our room, we scouted the area for restaurants and settled on one where you had to walk through a shop selling artisanal products before heading downstairs to the actual restaurant. So this is where all the people are! The restaurant was quite full, but we were able to secure a table for two.

We are in carnivorous mode. I decided after previous experiences that the next time I had the opportunity to eat a steak with black truffle sauce; I was going to order my own and not share. It’s on the menu! I’m ecstatic and my decision is made very quickly. Dennis decides to have wild boar stew. We order a half bottle of Sagrantino from a vineyard called Còlpetrone. My steak is tender, juicy, and oh so delicious, I can barely stand to give Dennis a bite. But I do, in exchange for a bite of wild boar, which is truly phenomenal. All I can think is, “the boys would love this meal”. The wine is perfect, and we take a picture of the label.

The following day brings sightseeing, shopping, and dodging rain showers. It doesn’t take long to walk around the town. We find lots of wine shops and eventually pick one for a longer look see. The woman is a great salesperson. She opens fresh bottles for us to try, serving bread in between tastes. We leave the store with eight bottles! We find a museum where we learn that it has only been in recent years (the last 30) that the area vintners have been making dry wine from Sagrantino grapes. Prior to this, for hundreds of years, the local monks made sweet Passito wine from the same grapes. Underground, below the museum we find the remains of an ancient church whose walls are still holding beautiful frescoes. It’s here that we wait out a monstrous thunderstorm. Between flashes of lightning and claps of thunder, we view frescoes of tortuous exorcisms and beatific monks. The area is known for its weaving as well as its wine. We find a shop selling beautiful linens and invest in a fabulous tablecloth in shades of green trimmed with olives as a memento of our time in Italy. We buy ceramics for Christmas gifts (and for me). We share a fabulous pizza for lunch (with a less than fabulous house wine) before discovering another church. On display are the mummified skeletal remains of the old keeper of the church keys in the same position in which he was found dead outside the doors of the church long ago. Amazing.

After an afternoon siesta; a requirement of living in Italy, and more shopping, we search for a dinner restaurant. The weather is so uncooperative that we choose the enoteca that is right next to the hotel. What a fabulous choice! We arrive a little early and of course don’t have a reservation. After discussion, they think they can squeeze us in. We laugh to ourselves because the place is empty, but by the time we leave, every table is full, and joyous customers are partaking of the owner’s wonderful offerings.

We each choose something from the menu and we ask the owner to pick out a nice Sagrantino that we can order by the glass. He is thrilled to be asked to choose, picks out a nice bottle, pours us each a glass, and sets the bottle aside at the bar. Before our dinner arrives, he brings out a huge flat pan. “This has just come out of the oven. It’s hot, please don’t touch. It’s so beautiful, I must show it to you.” He leans over to show us a huge focaccia bread studded with cherry tomatoes, sprinkled with herbs and glistening with olive oil. We ooh and aah over it, and soon a plate loaded with small squares of it arrives at the table, “on the house”. He sees us eyeing a leg of prosciutto at the bar, and comes over to explain that it is the best ham from Spain and we really should consider ordering it for an appetizer. We do. We’re making him very happy.

To be honest, I can’t remember what our main course was for dinner. Maybe it’s because for the first time ever, Dennis and I finished a whole bottle of wine over the course of one dinner. But after dinner…..out came a bowl of roasted chestnuts, hot from the fire, “on the house”. And after the chestnuts, came a bowl of cold mandarin oranges that were so sweet and juicy, “on the house”. And when we ordered our after dinner coffees, out came a plate of miniature cookies made on the premises filled with almonds and dried fruits. Last, but not least, we ordered one glass of Passito, the sweet Sagrantino wine to share for dessert. Normally, passito comes in a small aperitif glass; this huge portion came in a giant red wine glass, and was like nectar of the Gods. It was so heavenly; we decide to buy a bottle to take home. As we wait for our bill, I glance at my watch. Three hours has gone by! Now that’s a dinner to remember.